About the Maldives
Two facts explain almost everything about the Maldives, and neither appears in a brochure.
The first is that the country is about 99% water. Roughly 1,190 islands sit across 26 natural atolls, almost all of them small enough to walk around in half an hour, and nothing is connected to anything else. Every movement is a boat or an aircraft. Our guide to how many islands there actually are explains why the number is harder to pin down than it sounds.
The second is that this is a Muslim country running two sets of rules. On a resort island, alcohol is served, swimwear is normal and the ordinary rules are suspended by licence. On an inhabited island — where Maldivians live — none of that applies. Our comparison of resort and local islands is the single most useful page on this site for a first-time visitor, and our guides to alcohol and dress cover the boundaries in detail.
Before you arrive: the visa on arrival is free and granted to almost everyone, and the IMUGA declaration has to be submitted within 96 hours of travel. Both are simpler than they look and both catch people out.
Once you are there: how money works, including the service charge and tax that compound to nearly 29% on a resort bill; what tipping is actually expected; mobile data; power sockets; and why your resort runs an hour ahead of the rest of the country.
And the harder subjects, treated honestly: what reef bleaching means for what you will see underwater, whether the country is actually sinking, what the 2004 tsunami changed, and what the real risks are — which are current and sun, not sharks.
There is also food beyond the buffet and enough Dhivehi to be greeted properly, both of which cost nothing and improve a trip more than most things that are paid for.

















